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Secondary problems

M

MarcMiller

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Mar 18, 2009
Messages
501
Location
Philadelphia
Okay so me and my dad took my secondary box apart because i thought it wasnt working...i thought once my RPMs get to 3500 it opens my secondarys...so we took it off checked it out and sice the box was off the crank kept popping up..once the crank poppped up my check engine light came on..we didnt think it was a big deal so we continured trying to figure out why it wasnt working.
After awhile we stopped messing with it and put it back together..the check engine light stayed on and after that my intake sounded real low and not like a suction noise like it originally did...the next day i was about to drive to school and my car started shaking and my RPMs were real low aroubd 150-200 then went up to like 1100 without me touching my pedel at all..so i turned my car off and turned it back on and it stopped shaking..it doesnt feel right when im driving it but its hard to explain why..i feel like i push down the pedel and my car is late to respond..has anyone ever had thos type of problem?!

I honestly have no idea what happened..we didnt break anything.


EDIT: sensor code said it was the 2nd valve stuck open so once we reset it it fixed it.
Computer was reading it was stuck
 
MarcMiller said:
we took it off checked it out and sice the box was off the crank kept popping up..once the crank poppped up my check engine light came on..we didnt think it.


EDIT: sensor code said it was the 2nd valve stuck open so once we reset it it fixed it.
Computer was reading it was stuck
Click to expand...

what do you mean it kept popping off the crank?
 
GT2SVT said:
what do you mean it kept popping off the crank?
Click to expand...
theres a few gears and cranks under the box...once the top lid of the box is off the gear isnt being held down.

i was jumpin on my car this morning going to school and my check engine light came back on...it was a 15 something code my dad said he forgets...so my car is not fixed and we dunno what to do.

Its saying its either stuck open or closed. my dad said he thinks it said stuck open but idk i wasnt there.

Anyone know wtf i can do?
My whole intake sounds completly different now...and my check engine light is on.

The box used to work on and off when i got the RPM's high...i dont think it worked everytime at 3500 like i was told its supposed to.

Anyone know anything?

EDIT: Code said the IMRC is stuck open?
 
forgot to update on this sorry guys:crazy:...I installed it on monday and the check engine light went away after driving for about 50 miles.

It still doesnt go faster at 3500 RPMs...Is is supposed to do it always at 3500? or just when im going really slow to really fast suddenly?
 
I am pretty sure it is just at full throttle or close to it and I think it is at 3700 rpm - makes a little difference on the tachometer if you are watching for it.

edit: Just read somewhere that it is 3400 rpm at Wide open throttle and 3900 just cruising.
 
Bugzuki said:
I am pretty sure it is just at full throttle or close to it and I think it is at 3700 rpm - makes a little difference on the tachometer if you are watching for it.

edit: Just read somewhere that it is 3400 rpm at Wide open throttle and 3900 just cruising.
Click to expand...

Wide throttle? Does that mean like me flooring it kinda? And while cruising will i notice the secondarys kick in? Or will it just go fast normally
 
They only come on when you have the pedal all the way down (wide open throttle) and once your car reaches 3400 RPM or in the range. You can check under the hood and have someone mash the gas pedal down and have the RPM's go up past 3500 or 4000 and if you didn't see any of the linkage on the lower intake manifold, right BELOW the throttle body, then they aren't working.
 
Bugzuki said:
I am pretty sure it is just at full throttle or close to it and I think it is at 3700 rpm - makes a little difference on the tachometer if you are watching for it.

edit: Just read somewhere that it is 3400 rpm at Wide open throttle and 3900 just cruising.
Click to expand...

It appears to be 3400 at WOT because the tach is very slow to respond. It really is at 3750.
 
yeah it works.

Im thinking about getting a tune..what are all the plus things i can use with them.

I want the seatbelt light to never come on but also add hp
 
zorrex said:
It appears to be 3400 at WOT because the tach is very slow to respond. It really is at 3750.
Click to expand...

Slow tach? if that was the case...then it would be opeing at 3400 and the tach would finally move at 3750...your backwards....on your posting.

Bugzuki said it right...because he edited his initial response. If you look a few threads down you can see the argument there.

It's 3400 at WOT and 3900 at cruising speeds.
 
MarcMiller said:
yeah it works.

Im thinking about getting a tune..what are all the plus things i can use with them.

I want the seatbelt light to never come on but also add hp
Click to expand...

Plugs?

The seat belt light? you can remove the bulb form behind the gauges. As for removing it in the computer...i have no idea if that is even possible.

Now adding HP. Of course...it will do that. :)
 
Harrry said:
Plugs?

The seat belt light? you can remove the bulb form behind the gauges. As for removing it in the computer...i have no idea if that is even possible.

Now adding HP. Of course...it will do that. :)
Click to expand...
i said plus things.

Now what are good tunes to increase horsepower? not real real expensive ones.
 
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