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65mm mustang throttle body

I'm sorry, but you started this kind of jokes... :rolleyes:
No offence...

I'm waiting as everyone... if you opened these doors, it would be nice to share the knowledge with other people... Me and some other guys wouldn't need to open once opened doors again.

But if it is a pleasure for you, that people are waiting and you wrote, "wait as everyone over the months"... I wrote you my comments...
I suppose, that everyone can joke... not only you. :shrug:

You don't know me, but I also don't know you... so, take it easy... :cool:

Peace? Let's start from the beggining...
 
I think i kinda got your point in the last 4 days on how much you want this..Pay me and i'll work faster i guess :shrug:

If you want something done right...you would think you want to give the guy enough time to do a proper and correct write up. 70% of the time people don't do these modifications because they think they will screw it up. My goal is to make this a step by step process that anyone could do it.
I've spent more time then i wanted too on finishing this. And it's 95% done. I'm going to overview everything and give it to a noobie to try with a free 65mm and see if he can do it on his own. Once i see he can. then i will post it.
 
I don't know why you've edited your posts, but my "story" looks stupid, now.
So, I also removed it...

I hope you could see how it looks from my side...
Let's say that both of us were not enough gentle...

I think all the case was a little misunderstanding...
I have no problem with this.

Peace?
 
OK guys...

Yesterday, I did it by myself.
The car runs better from the bottom, but is not so sharp at the top rpms.
I need to correct TPS - shaft connection (the shaft is too short, to make TPS work correctly), as there are two MIL codes, and the TPS position is 14% all the time. And it should be 18%-20% when closed and 92-94% at WOT.
But it will also be done, soon.
I think I'll mill the body, to let the shaft outstand more...

Then dyno, and then remap and dyno again.
But the TB response is great.

Let me show you my way:

First I dismounted Stang TB and ST200/SVT TB.




Then, I took both shafts and measure them:



Then, there are 2 ways:
Do it the stock way, or "optimize".
I chose the first option, as the second one I don't trust.
I'd prefer not to have only 1/2 of the shaft... especially when I change the TB for the bigger one. It's bigger, so I don't need to make it extra thin.

The second option is easier, because you only have to cut the shaft, and butterfly will fit.

In my option, you have to widen the notch in SVT shaft, to fit wider butterfly from Stang.
And you have to do it correctly, as the butterfly has to fit exactly in the middle. Otherwise, TB won't open.

So, I use miller:



And filed the rest manually.

The Stang body also needs two minor changes:

- to widen the spring catch, to fit SVT double spring:




- to make the upper (WOT) stopper

I prefer to make ready bolt on, one piece thing, so instead of making additional stoper to be bolt on while TB mounting, I made one connected to the TB:

I drilled a hole:



Threaded it, and mount the stoper, with the distance to let the butterfly fully open:



And it works like this:



So, here we have the ready to mount product:



And that's all - everyting but TPS fits, you just have to take your stock TB off, and put on the new one instead.
 
Schem said:
So, here we have the ready to mount product:



And that's all - everyting but TPS fits, you just have to take your stock TB off, and put on the new one instead.
Click to expand...

Tell me you didn't grind and polish your TB plate... you know that has a special sealant on it right?? If you look on your stock SVT throttle body there is a specific warning telling you not to spray cleaners onto it... :nonono:
 
I haven't seen any warning on my 2 pcs of SVT TB and one Stang TB :shrug:

And I have no idea what for they need to cover the plate with "special sealing"... This is brass - "corrosion proof", and there's no need to be 100% sealed, especially that it doesn't close tight :D
The only corrosion is, when you put the brass into chloride solution... and zinc goes into the solution

So, yes, I took special brass-cleaning paste, and cleaned/polished the plate. :D
 
CSVT#49 said:
Tell me you didn't grind and polish your TB plate... you know that has a special sealant on it right?? If you look on your stock SVT throttle body there is a specific warning telling you not to spray cleaners onto it... :nonono:
Click to expand...

How long have you been hanging out here? You haven't read any of my rants about the "special coating"?

The only purpose of the teflon coating is to keep the sludge build up minimized long enough to get the car past warranty so Ford didn't have to pay warranty claims for cleaning them. It does cut down on the sludge, but it does not eliminate it. The throttle body will eventually need to be cleaned no matter what. Also, no matter how careful you are to preserve the coating, it will eventually go away.

It is more important to occasionally clean the throttle body than to worry about preserving the coating.
 
Hey Schem; i can't tell from the photo's. Is the the SVT shaft shorter than the 'stang one ? I remember the SVT shaft being used and there not being a problem with the TPS. Which TPS did you use ? ...G.
 
The TPS is the same in ST200 and Stang GT TB.
It's F4SF type (see the number on it)
So, it doesn't matter which one you use.

And yes, the shaft from 60mm is about 5mm shorter... so it doesn't come out from the new TB...
It's quite logical - if the diameter of the TB is 5mm larger, so the shaft also has to be 5mm larger to come out the same way from the other side :D

I used a miller again, and here we are:







Now, it fits well :D
 
nice job. I didn't get the max out of mine until i upgraded the fuel pump. Are you doing your own remapping ? ..G.
 
Thanx! :D

First, I'd like to dyno her with outer oxygen sensor, to see if the mixture is stechiometric all the time.

And then, remap of course, to get the optimum...which means maximum :laugh:
 
i was wondering what needs altering in the map for a TB swap... that's why i asked if you were actually remapping the pcm or a tuner at the dyno. You say 'with outer oxygen sensor' .. do you mean wideband oxygen sensor ?.. G.
 
I've just made swap... today, it will be the first day with working TPS... so I can't tell for sure if, and how it should be remapped.

I'll dyno her, and we will see something then. :D
 
aaaaah.... :idea:

No, not me... The tuner will do it :D

By "outer" sensor, I mean the unit in the workshop, which measure the oxygen status while put into your exhaust. I don't know it in english, but we call it "the probe"...
 
probe is correct. When you said 'outer' i wondered if you meant wide. Your english is easily understood, you have nothing to worry about on that score ...G.
 
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