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wheel hop with polyurethane roll resistors

9

98TredSVT

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Apr 26, 2007
Messages
540
Location
Plainfield, IL
Today I was practicing launching and I was still getting wheel hop once in a while. I have polyurethane filled front and rear roll resistors. I thought these were supposed to eliminate wheel hop? I Know if I had a stock diff my diff would have broke today. Would Bradness's street link completely eliminate engine movement and wheel hop? I can feel the engine move when I shift and let the clutch out.
 
I think you need to properly adjust the roll restrictors. I had a simialiar issue with my car when I replaced my rear roll restrictor. I still haven't gotten it right yet but it is close. I almost never have wheel hop and my rear one is stock. Even on stock suspension it rarely hopped it just did good burnouts.
 
98TredSVT said:
I can feel the engine move when I shift and let the clutch out.
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Your engine isn't moving.....I'll put big money on that, and if it is, your thru-bolts aren't tight. The roll resisters were never claimed to "eliminate" wheel hop, but they do help, you also need to use a popper launch technique to keep the tires planted.
 
svtavino said:
I think you need to properly adjust the roll restrictors. I had a simialiar issue with my car when I replaced my rear roll restrictor. I still haven't gotten it right yet but it is close. I almost never have wheel hop and my rear one is stock. Even on stock suspension it rarely hopped it just did good burnouts.
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How do you adjust them?
 
98TredSVT said:
Today I was practicing launching and I was still getting wheel hop once in a while. I have polyurethane filled front and rear roll resistors. I thought these were supposed to eliminate wheel hop? I Know if I had a stock diff my diff would have broke today. Would Bradness's street link completely eliminate engine movement and wheel hop? I can feel the engine move when I shift and let the clutch out.
Click to expand...

Needs more practice.
 
98TredSVT said:
How do you adjust them?
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You want to makes sure that the thru bolt is centered in the mount. You don't want it to be resting on anything when you're tigthening it down. I used a seperate jack to lift up the back of the tranny and then tightened it down. This should also eliminate any vibrations you're accustomed to feeling in your steering wheel with poly mounts
 
I remember seeing a post on CEG a while back where it was recommended to "preload" the rear mount by lossening the bolt, letting it drop down in the mounting hole and retightening.

I could be wrong, but that might help. Like others have said in previous posts, poly filled mounts dont completely eliminate wheel hop.
 
with a hard 143k on my CSVT and only a rear poly mout from PRT.. I NEVER had any wheel hop.. Pole can vouch for that
 
I still need a rear mount. i have inserts in the front. i didnt have wheel hop until my lower control arm bushings went south. check those out. they go bad often, try to find some poly inserts or just get new ones again. they are spendy, however.
 
well it wasn't wheel hopping all the time, so you guys are probably right, more practice needed. I was trying to slip the clutch from a little under 3k but no matter how I tried it pretty much just graps like I dump it. A stock svt clutch seems much easier to control during launching. What do most people do for launching? I know a decent amount of people say the stage II spec clutches glaze really easily, but mine has about 15k on it with some launching and is perfect still.
 
My spec stage II is holding up well too despite doing abusive 4K clutch drops, even like a dozen of them one night over 2 hours. The car feels to me like it still hops a little on launches, but observers outside tell me I get more tire spin than hop. I still have the original bushings up front besides the front and rear poly'd rr's from Pole, maybe those old bushings are why I'm perceiving some hop-like shakes. Meanwhile, the stage II may actually get slightly too much grip, that could make slipping it difficult, it just grabs.
 
I had solid 94a f/r roll restrictors with no wheel hop.

I now have new OEM f/r roll restrictors, the front has the ES inserts, and I have Bradness's boxed a-arms. I have no wheel hop and minimal nvh now :)
 
FWIW your driving is having more effect on stopping the wheel hop than the arms. The 2-bolt LCAs have more flex in the bushings than the steel plate they're fitted to, boxing them will help, but the primary trouble point there is the flex of the bushings themselves.
 
Pole120 said:
FWIW your driving is having more effect on stopping the wheel hop than the arms. The 2-bolt LCAs have more flex in the bushings than the steel plate they're fitted to, boxing them will help, but the primary trouble point there is the flex of the bushings themselves.
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Exactly! You've added rigidness with the solid RR's, but now the "weak link" has moved down the line with your LCA bushings. I had the 4-bolt LCA's and still had wheel hop after the solid RR's.

Some type of bushing upgrade is needed IMO. Also, a type of radius arm that attaches to the LCA and to the unibody, to prevent the side to side movement and only allows the natural up and down movement would be a great step to no wheel hop. Better struts and a better spring ratio wouldn't hurt either.

The more power you put through this platform, the more wheel hop you will see. This is one of the greatest limitations with this platform, and not much of an aftermarket support to overcome it. It will take trial and error of Contique owners to overcome these obsticals, like we've done with other aspects.
 
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