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Port matched guys...question

S

SVT Doood

CEG'er
Joined
Mar 3, 2004
Messages
320
Location
Chicago IL
For the guys that are running port matched 3Ls...

Are you using high temp RTV black to seal your LIM gaskets to the heads? I'm not super confident that I have an air-tight seal over the JB weld 3L injector fill-ins.
 
First of all, the only reason to use the high temp black RTV is if you are installing the Bugzuki plates.

Second, did you really use JB weld to fill in the old injector valley?

Third, if you are running a port-matched 3L you will put high temp black RTV on the heads first, install the Bugzuki plates over the un-cured high temp black RTV, "hand tight" fasten the plates down using an allen wrench on those small bolts that come with the Bugzuki plates, let some RTV ooze out, clean up the exess that squeezes out, leave the plates tightened down until the RTV sets up over night.

Next day, remove the small bolts, make sure everything is clean in the injector ports, clip off the LIM-to-head gasket alignment pins. Install the rest of the intake/motor as you would normally.
 
(ducks head) Yes...actually JB Stik.

I bought the engine already filled out...but managed to dislodge one fill, so I had to replace it.

I'm more than open to advice on what I should be using...
 
I would remove all the JB weld if it doesn't actually seperate the intake ports on the heads. If one of those breaks loose and gets in the motor you will be up •••• creek. Get the Bugzuki plates and follow the directions I gave you.
 
JB weld definitely breaks off very easily. I used to use JB weld to hold the plates down. RTV holds significantly better. One bump and the JB weld breaks loose. I'd recommend the copper high temp RTV on the heads. It holds better than the black.
 
I much prefer the red anerobic sealant to adhere the bugzuki plates to the heads. The RTV black and High Temp Copper both say they are unsuitable for a fuel environment.

From the permatex TDS sheets: "Note: Not recommended for parts in contact with gasoline."

On the one set of plates I used RTV black they RTV was very brittle when I removed them.

http://www.permatex.com/products/Au..._makers/Permatex_Anaerobic_Gasket_Maker_b.htm
 
SHOgoFast said:
I much prefer the red anerobic sealant to adhere the bugzuki plates to the heads. The RTV black and High Temp Copper both say they are unsuitable for a fuel environment.

From the permatex TDS sheets: "Note: Not recommended for parts in contact with gasoline."

On the one set of plates I used RTV black they RTV was very brittle when I removed them.

http://www.permatex.com/products/Au..._makers/Permatex_Anaerobic_Gasket_Maker_b.htm
Click to expand...
Excellent resource...all this will help a lot when I install mine this weekend.

On the red...how long did you wait after bolting the plates down to re-assemble the engine...
 
SHOgoFast said:
I much prefer the red anerobic sealant to adhere the bugzuki plates to the heads. The RTV black and High Temp Copper both say they are unsuitable for a fuel environment.

From the permatex TDS sheets: "Note: Not recommended for parts in contact with gasoline."

On the one set of plates I used RTV black they RTV was very brittle when I removed them.

http://www.permatex.com/products/Au..._makers/Permatex_Anaerobic_Gasket_Maker_b.htm
Click to expand...

The copper works very good. It is much better than the black and we've had it on over 100 3L motors. I've pulled plates off after use and they are very hard to get off and really shouldn't ever need to be removed. I've never had or heard of any leaking issues on our motors. The sealant isn't really going to see any direct contact with fuel except for the small spots that run over the side that isn't wiped completely off. That isn't to say the stuff you listed won't work. I'm only saying the copper stuff has been working great for us.
 
SVT Doood said:
Excellent resource...all this will help a lot when I install mine this weekend.

On the red...how long did you wait after bolting the plates down to re-assemble the engine...
Click to expand...

I can't speak for how long one has to wait since I've never done a port-matched swap project. What I can say is "Watch out concerning the instructions on the label for Permatex Anerobic Gasket Maker." The packaging will tell you that after cleaning the mating surfaces, you have to apply Permatex Surface Prep Activator. Here is a link:

http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...tex_Surface_Prep_Activator_for_Anaerobics.htm

This is a catalyst that speeds-up the cure of Anerobic Gasket Maker. I think you only need to use this if you were working in an automotive repair shop where fast turnaround times are required, i.e., have to get the car running quickly for the customer. If you are going to let the part sit overnight, you don't need the catalyst. Dig around on the Permatex website and look for technical data sheets on both products and they will discuss this in better detail.

You may have a hard time finding Anerobic Gasket Maker; it sells in very low volumes compared to RTV. The catalyst usually is a special order item.
 
Blackcoog said:
The copper works very good. It is much better than the black and we've had it on over 100 3L motors. I've pulled plates off after use and they are very hard to get off and really shouldn't ever need to be removed. I've never had or heard of any leaking issues on our motors. The sealant isn't really going to see any direct contact with fuel except for the small spots that run over the side that isn't wiped completely off. That isn't to say the stuff you listed won't work. I'm only saying the copper stuff has been working great for us.
Click to expand...

I've never used the Copper stuff for intake plates. I arrived at the anerobic after the one set of plates I had to remove and the black was crumbly and then started reading the lables on the RTV. You are right, it should not see any fuel under the plates.

I let my plates cure over night before moving on. The lable says you can proceed sooner, but I build in plenty of time with my work to allow for over-night.

Also, I have not used the catalyst either. The stuff can be hard to find, one non-chain parts store by me typically keeps two tubes on the shelf.
 
Update:

Got the Bugzuki plates. Paul is terrific to deal with. Holding the plates and seeing how well they were cut made me embarrassed that I amateurishly had used JB Weld. So anyways...popped everything off and...the 3 JB Weld plugs I made were gone. Took a light and looked into the intake tract...there they were just sitting there. Fished them all out easily enough. They're too large to pass the valves (thank god).

I picked up some Permatex High-temp red and sealed the plates to the heads. I'm gonna wait the 24 hours to let them cure before I put everything back on...tho its killing me not to be able to put it all back together and drive it. So I took the time to install new Motorcraft plug wires/NGK Iridium plugs/new coil, and repair the little red vaccuum tube that runs to the pressure regulator on the fuel line...I had routed it too close to the EGR pipe and it melted. Luckily I had a spare vaccuum tube assembly. I'm also gonna ditch the Sho-shop cold air intake and put the stocker back on to draw air from the wheel well.

Thanks again Blu-Fuzz for pointing me in the right direction!!
 
Glad to help - just don't want to see you do all the work and end up with a pile of scrap in the end. ;)

Combined with the other members we have some good info here.
 
98consvt so needs to read this thread !! he wants to keep him jb stick weld in .. im not a port matched guy but i obviously know you guys know your stuff ... someone :troutslap: 98consvt and lead him in the right direction on his port matched motor this is his reply

98consvt said:
And as for the jb weld, I guess when I go to change the LIM, I will just leave everything as it is and just change the LIM unless someone says to do something else.
Click to expand...
 
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