I found this on neco it's a pretty fresh write up / how to on a 3L swap I thought I would post it!
Originally Posted by Turbo Zetec Tour On NECO
for a full oval port going into a returnless car.
swap timing covers - use new gaskets, scrape off the old RTV at the 8 spots (making sure not to get any in the oil pan) and apply new RTV. within 15 minutes of applying the RTV install the 2.5L timing cover. dont forget to rotate the pulse wheel to the other position before you install the cover.
valve covers - inspect the valve cover gaskets and use new gaskets if they look old or torn. scrape off the old RTV at the locations (4 on the front bank and 2 for the rear bank) and apply new RTV. install the valve covers and tighten the bolts to spec (correct order and torque)
cut off the tabs that keep the alternator bracket from mounting - with the timing cover on the tabs will be very obvious but if your not positive just try to hold the alternator bracket into position and you will see them then.
install the alternator bracket and alternator
swap over the axle support bracket - do this before the manifolds so its easy to get to
install the stock 2.5L exhaust manifolds or headers - headers are easy to do while the engine is out and they make a big difference. if you buy headers, dont use the gaskets that come with them, they suck. use either the stock multi-layer metal gaskets (if they havent been leaking) or brand new Fel-pro or Ford gaskets.
remove the pilot bushing - on the trans side of the engine in the center of the crankshaft is the pilot bushing. it needs to be dealt with so that the MTX75 input shaft doesnt hit it. you can either remove it or grind it flush with the crank. i prefer to remove it, the easiest way i have found is to take a dremel tool with the cut-off wheel and cut 2 notches into opposite sides of the bushing. then use a bearing puller and crank down on the bolts so it grabs the bushing in those 2 notches. use the puller to pull out the bushing.
move the transmission guide dowel - there are 2 alignment dowels on the back side of the engine, the one on the left (when looking at the back of the block) needs to be moved. you can see the other hole where it can go, and thats where it needs to go. there are 2 ways to go about removing it. the first is to just grab it with some big channel locks and twist it until it comes out, sometimes this is easy while others its not. the second option is to take the dremel again and cut part of the ear that its mounted in off. that ear is not used ont he MTX75 so its not an issue to cut it off. if you grab it with pliers, you are going to score it, so before you hammer it into the other hole, turn it around so the scored end goes into the engine and the clean end into the transmission.
install the shim plate - the shim plate thats between the engine and trans, thin piece of metal, just rests on the alignment dowels.
install flywheel - the flywheel only goes on one way, install it and torque the bolts to spec.
clutch and pressure plate - go ahead and install these as well, making sure the clutch disc is centered (an alignment tool makes it easy). torque the pressure plate bolts to spec.
bolt on transmission - get the splines lined up for the clutch, and then rotate the trans as needed to get the dowels lined up. give it a good push and it should go on most of the way. use the bolts to pull it in the rest of the way, but dont use the one that is a through bolt on the lower front (radiator side) as you will likely break the ear off, save that one until all the others are tight. it may take a little bit of wiggling to get it lined up and on.
bolt on the starter.
coolant crossover pipe - you can do this before the transmission but i like to wait till afterwards as the bolts for the trans are easier to get to with it off.
drivers motor mount - remove the mount from the 2.5L engine (this will require removing one of the heads). try and fit it between the heads of the 3L, it wont fit but take notice of where it doesnt fit. grind down those areas and try again. keep going until you can consistantly install and remove it from between the heads, once you are there you can either just install it as is or paint it and then install it.
reinstall the LIM
flip the 3L fuel rail around and install it so it points out the back (drivers side)
install any other brackets - things like engine lifting eyes that you may not have transfered over yet.
if you are going to delete the EGR no is the time to install the cap on the rear manifold and the delete plate (with a new gasket) onto the intake manifold. if you want to keep EGR then mount the UIM and modify the tubes to make it work. you will have to remove the UIM before you install the engine.
install the main engine harness and hook up what connections you can - things like the alternator, O2 sensors, knock sensor (if your car has one) etc.
install the engine - once its in the engine bay, install the passenger motor mount, then the power steering pump (if you didnt disconnect it from the lines and install it out of the car, it only goes in 1 way) then the drivers motor mount. you can then let it hang from them, thats what they are designed for anyways. then install the front and rear roll resistors. now that you know the engine isnt going anywhere you can start hooking everything back up.
install the fuel injection harness - this will have to be modified slightly to fit under the 3L manifold. you should be able to figure out how to move the connectors to make them line up with the fuel injectors. use electrical tape to keep them all together.
mount the coil pack - you will have to make a mount for the coil pack. either off the front valve cover on the drivers side, or off the firewall using 2 L brackets (make sure its far enough down it doesnt hit the UIM before you drill holes though)
once you have all the wiring hooked up and the coil pack mounted, you install the UIM. make sure you dont pinch any of the wires for the fuel injectors.
if you are using the NPG fuel mod then you will use your stock fuel pressure sensor on the NPG block and hook up the connector for it. vacuum will come in a little bit. if you would rather fabricate a new fuel line let me know and i can help you out (this is what i did and i have pictures of how to do it, its not easy but can be done for less than $10)
vacuum - find your vacuum tubes from the 2.5L, remove the rubber L that has 3 small coming out of it and remove those lines. use that rubber piece on the port on the passenger side of the UIM. then find 3 of the small lines with the bends you want to connect to the following. 1 line goes the fuel pressure sensor, 1 line goes the grey HVAC, and 1 line goes to the EVAP purge solenoid. those last 2 likely have the connections hiding between the UIM and the firewall somewhere. the big port on the bottom of the UIM goes to the PCV valve in the rear valve cover with a short piece of hose (probably already mounted on the UIM). take the stock brake booster hose, carefully cut off the tube on the end of check valve thats in the middle, the side that went to the UIM on the 2.5L is the end you cut off. using some hose, hook it up to the large port on the top of the UIM. finally, you have the brass port behind the IAC valve. hopefully you still have some of the plastic fittings that came with the UIM, the one that was on the brass fitting to begin with ideally. that fitting is perfect as the stock 2.5L fitting fits onto the end of it and then it fits onto the brass fitting.
next is the throttle body and cables. im not sure what the best way to hook up the cables is without an SVT throttle cable bracket but you should be able to modify yours to work, or use pieces from both the 3L and 2.5L brackets to make it work.
once you have that done, hook up the shift cables, AC compressor (leave it hooked up and in the car when you remove the 2.5L), y-pipe, fill it with fluids, and double check that you have all of the connections installed (dont forget the speed sensor). bleed the clutch, install the battery and put it on a battery charger (even if its not dead, you dont want ti give out while installing the tune). install the tune and fire it up.
there will likely be some other misc things that i forgot so dont be afraid to ask questions. pictures of what you are having problems with help as well.
Even if the MPV UIM doesn't fit there are other options to avoid porting, you could pick up a different 3L UIM that would fit. Personally I deleted the EGR because I just didn't want to deal with it, that was the only reason. I think if you retain the EGR on a full 3L you need to do some fabricating for the EGR tube to reach.
Based on the quote from Svttour it sounds like there are no tabs to cut, that's a bonus.
I think with the MPV UIM and any full 3L UIM your issue may be with the throttle body and cable bracket. I want to see what you end up doing because the MPV UIM has a similar bracket setup as the Escape UIM. I had some trouble finding people who used the Escape UIM along with the stock Contour throttle cable. I don't think many have done it and if they have I couldn't find it. I ended up with a Taurus TB and a fabricated bracket made from the Contour and Taurus brackets.
Best of luck, the swap is well worth it.
thanks much !!!
As for the EGR i plan on deleting it as for any lines that go to the egr valve what did you do with them ? also did u buy an egr delete kit off here or fab your own?
As for the UIM im gonna make it work ... im motivated, I'll get a hood to make it fit.. i want it to fit ... I like the CSVT's because there unique and uncommon .. my future full 3.0 MPV motor will be the same a unique and uncommon
As for the throttle body .. well Sam answered that question .. I'm swapping it out for a Taurus TB.
