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#49's new powerplant has arrived, let the build begin

I would tend to agree with BrApple, but if you're super careful and quadruple check everything, then I think you'll be OK. Remeber that Sam has had trouble with his 3L Turbo with doing it all at once. BrApple did the engine first, then the turbo a little while later, and ran into few issues. :shrug:


sam already had the 3L installed, iirc ...
 
Whatcha doin in Michigan??

Anywho...

Check out the latest and greatest! Decided to match the UIM with the correct LIM. Might have to investigate sending this out for EH'ing as well.

st220lim.jpg
Very nice Mike, how much did that cost?
I wouldn't worry about EH'ing something like that, way to easy with hand porting and not worth the EH.

And definitely do it all at once, much easier and no reason if you're careful.
-J
 
Very nice Mike, how much did that cost?
I wouldn't worry about EH'ing something like that, way to easy with hand porting and not worth the EH.

And definitely do it all at once, much easier and no reason if you're careful.
-J

$42... plus $60 shipping :nonono:

However the guy hasn't shipped it yet because he's locating the fuel rail to go with it.
 
Remember hes doing aftermarket alot lower compression pistons. So i doubt if he had it tuned na 3L it would produce that great of numbers. Are you going to measure the dif between the 2 lower intakes? Im just curious if ones bigger than the other

Well not a lot lower then stock... most likely 9.5:1 maybe 9.8:1 still working with piston manf. I'll probably be stopping by the shop next Monday to see how things are coming.

As far as the LIM... most likely will be the same port sizes. I'll just be able to port them out a lot easier then plastic if need be.

Now as far as doing the engine swap first then installing the turbo... I'm still thinking I will be doing everything at once. I don't want to be reinstalling anything or dismantling parts once everything is in the car. I have full confidence that everything will go very smooth. I am not in any rush to get things complete. My only deadline is SZ10, which actually is actually getting a little closer then I would like, but I'm not worried yet. If anything else I could put off the paint job... however I'd rather not. Besides once they have the car it should only be a couple of weeks anyway. The tuning is the wild card here. I have a feeling that will be the biggest problem I have to tackle.
 
CSVT #49
Reading on up on your build brings back memories of my talon build. The build is a pain and takes a lot of time and money. At the end when the car makes its initial bark and the goose bumps cover my body, it is all well worth it. I congradulate you on your efforts and wish you the best of luck on your wickedly sick build. Not to intrude on your parade but from my experience on turbo cars a 9.5:1 compression is pretty high if you are considering 500whp. However if your heads are properly machined and you remove all the quench zones and with a on point tune it is possible. I look forward to seeing the turn out and will stay on top of your build.
 
Yes I plan to do some head work. However I am not worried about the high compression ratio. I am not the first person to run boost on high compression. If you search around most people on here, I'd say from the hip 90% of them run stock internals, which can sustain plenty of power and are boosted to 8-14psi. I will have a built motor pushing 5-18psi with a forged bottom end, designed to handle the boost pressures I have targeted. I also have professional engine builders who are helping me choose the custom piston design to meet my needs. So again I am not worried in the slightest.
 
Most efficient 4V chambers will tolerate that compression and boost, especially since he'll probably have an intercooler and less than 20psi.
-J
 
That’s cool. I just wanted to put it out there that’s all. Would hate to see you go through all this and later it’s what limits your power. Stock cars have had turbo’s on them and running 14psi but what power have they made low to mid 300's. When my talon's bottom end was stock, I know it’s a four and different, with the factory 8.5:1 pistons with 93 octane I was limited to about 19 to 20 psi which with supporting mods netted a little over 400 to all fours. Once i rebuilt it and dropped the compression to 7.8:1 i was able to run around 23 to 24 psi and with a few more tweaks and bigger turbo on 93octane hit 508whp. A friends stealth with the 3.0l with 8.5:1 with 20 or so psi on 93octane hit around mid to high 500's. Guess the real question is are you trying to hit the 500 or so mark on pump or race gas. If race gas then that settles it. Either way your contour is going to be insane!!! Torque is going to be sweet. If you don’t mind me asking what turbo did you end up getting?
 
That’s cool. I just wanted to put it out there that’s all. Would hate to see you go through all this and later it’s what limits your power. Stock cars have had turbo’s on them and running 14psi but what power have they made low to mid 300's. When my talon's bottom end was stock, I know it’s a four and different, with the factory 8.5:1 pistons with 93 octane I was limited to about 19 to 20 psi which with supporting mods netted a little over 400 to all fours. Once i rebuilt it and dropped the compression to 7.8:1 i was able to run around 23 to 24 psi and with a few more tweaks and bigger turbo on 93octane hit 508whp. A friends stealth with the 3.0l with 8.5:1 with 20 or so psi on 93octane hit around mid to high 500's. Guess the real question is are you trying to hit the 500 or so mark on pump or race gas. If race gas then that settles it. Either way your contour is going to be insane!!! Torque is going to be sweet. If you don’t mind me asking what turbo did you end up getting?

There are several 400WHP cars on here. And if I remember correctly there was a guy with a Cougar that was near 500...Most people dont go above 350 because there really isn't a need to, it is unusable on the street until 3rd gear.
 
There are several 400WHP cars on here. And if I remember correctly there was a guy with a Cougar that was near 500...Most people dont go above 350 because there really isn't a need to, it is unusable on the street until 3rd gear.

Actually I think some of the 400+ ones say that they still spin in 4th.
 
...Most people dont go above 350 because there really isn't a need to, it is unusable on the street until 3rd gear.

This is only because no one has made modifications to support this kind of power to make it to the ground. This will be part of my build after everything is up and running.

My plan is to prove my build can put down the power on a dyno. Then I will run the car at about half it's capability until further modifications have been completed to actually put the power to the ground. This is also one of the reasons why I went out of my way with a fully mappable boost controller. This car, when everything is said and done, will run at 18psi or so out of the box. However until then I will be mapping it to only use 5psi down low and maybe up to 10psi up high.
 
This is only because no one has made modifications to support this kind of power to make it to the ground.

Exactly. People on here are like " well i bought this axle and it keeps breaking" I dont think anyones every REALLY tried anything substantial on here other than buys a set of axles that supposedly support X amount of HP. I think if you talk to a custom axle shop that knows what they are doing they can make axles that support that power. If hondas can why not a contour? Of course thats olny part of the equation to putting down the power

My plan is to prove my build can put down the power on a dyno. Then I will run the car at about half it's capability until further modifications have been completed to actually put the power to the ground. This is also one of the reasons why I went out of my way with a fully mappable boost controller. This car, when everything is said and done, will run at 18psi or so out of the box. However until then I will be mapping it to only use 5psi down low and maybe up to 10psi up high.

Hell why not just go full standalone hehe
 
Glad you got a progressive boost controller. Not many people around here have them and I think thats part of the keys to make this platform fast.

As to the exterior... If I had the chance to repaint my car I would do t-red with gold flake in it. I had a friend of mine paint a 1 foot x 1 foot tin plate with t-red with gold flake and it looked amazing. Also, I think an OEM cf hood can look okay on a t-red car. Not sure if I had posted this picture on here before but i think it looks okay on my car.

posteditdoug.jpg
 
This is only because no one has made modifications to support this kind of power to make it to the ground. This will be part of my build after everything is up and running.

My plan is to prove my build can put down the power on a dyno. Then I will run the car at about half it's capability until further modifications have been completed to actually put the power to the ground. This is also one of the reasons why I went out of my way with a fully mappable boost controller. This car, when everything is said and done, will run at 18psi or so out of the box. However until then I will be mapping it to only use 5psi down low and maybe up to 10psi up high.

What other mods do you have planned for getting the traction down anyways? I am guess the map will not have any boost until you hit higher in the RPM's of second.

Exactly. People on here are like " well i bought this axle and it keeps breaking" I dont think anyones every REALLY tried anything substantial on here other than buys a set of axles that supposedly support X amount of HP. I think if you talk to a custom axle shop that knows what they are doing they can make axles that support that power. If hondas can why not a contour? Of course thats olny part of the equation to putting down the power



Hell why not just go full standalone hehe
The reason why no one has REALLY tried is because no one out there REALLY makes any aftermarket parts for this platform. He is spending almost $1000 on a set of axles that MIGHT work....key word MIGHT. I am just hoping that they a.) don't break at the knuckle like mine did on a moderate launch with a n.a. 3.0 b.) the splines don't strip out....and I am waiting to hear what they do to the splines to prevent this. I really really hope they work, I really do. But, I am not holding my breath because there have been so many times people have said I am getting stage 3 or stage 4 axles that the shop said should hold 500 horse power....then the strip out the splines.
 
What other mods do you have planned for getting the traction down anyways? I am guess the map will not have any boost until you hit higher in the RPM's of second.


The reason why no one has REALLY tried is because no one out there REALLY makes any aftermarket parts for this platform. He is spending almost $1000 on a set of axles that MIGHT work....key word MIGHT. I am just hoping that they a.) don't break at the knuckle like mine did on a moderate launch with a n.a. 3.0 b.) the splines don't strip out....and I am waiting to hear what they do to the splines to prevent this. I really really hope they work, I really do. But, I am not holding my breath because there have been so many times people have said I am getting stage 3 or stage 4 axles that the shop said should hold 500 horse power....then the strip out the splines.
Damn you had aftermarket ones and they broke on a moderate launch on a NA 3.0? Guess you would have been better keeping the stock ones lol
 
Damn you had aftermarket ones and they broke on a moderate launch on a NA 3.0? Guess you would have been better keeping the stock ones lol

That is with a LSD as well. Normally the tires on these cars will just spin spin spin.....this one time they just caught and it was from when I was shifting into second that it actually snapped. The axle wasn't even that old...Pud had replaced it not too long before I bought it. That is why I am really hoping that his axles really are unbreakable like they are claiming they should be.
 
What other mods do you have planned for getting the traction down anyways? I am guess the map will not have any boost until you hit higher in the RPM's of second.

This...

eftractionbar.jpg



The reason why no one has REALLY tried is because no one out there REALLY makes any aftermarket parts for this platform. He is spending almost $1000 on a set of axles that MIGHT work....key word MIGHT. I am just hoping that they a.) don't break at the knuckle like mine did on a moderate launch with a n.a. 3.0 b.) the splines don't strip out....and I am waiting to hear what they do to the splines to prevent this. I really really hope they work, I really do. But, I am not holding my breath because there have been so many times people have said I am getting stage 3 or stage 4 axles that the shop said should hold 500 horse power....then the strip out the splines.

I haven't decided to buy those axle shafts yet. I am also not banking on them solving all of my problems. The boost controller will assist in the launchs and the traction bars should assist in that area as well. I need to do more investigation in the matter to be honest. I am in contact with the folks over at Full Race who have a history with designing and manfacturing traction bars and other suspension components for Honda's to see if they can help me out, or give me some pointers to design my own.
 
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