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3L rebuild questions...

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  • 3L rebuild questions...

    Ok...I have 2 3L engines I'm gonna be rebuilding in the next 3-4 months. I'd like some input on the first, and I'll post another topic when I do the other.


    ​Unknown year 3L block with 2000 SVT heads/UIM/LIM (True old school hybrid)
    >100,000 miles
    EGR Delete (welded shut)

    ​Engine was originally put together by former CEG member Cory in WV. Engine was data-logged and tuned. Runs great and didn't burn any oil. I'm pulling the engine and its going into another SVT I just purchased, so I'm gonna rebuild it for the new car. This will be my 3 season fun car. NO TRACKING (I have another SVT I'm prepping for track time). I'm gonna keep the true hybrid format, as it works for the street.

    ​Parts I'm buying:
    Clevite main and rod bearings
    ARP Head studs (cheaper than the stock TTY Ford head bolts I believe)
    All new gaskets
    ​New crank and camshaft sensors
    Maybe new timing gear?

    ​I plan on having the heads and block hot tanked, and then the block honed.

    Since this is gonna be a street build, I wasn't planning on head work (porting, 5 angle valve job, or 3L valves and all), tho I was planning on gasket matching and all.

    Will I need new:
    Valve springs?
    ​Timing gear?
    Valve guides?
    ​Do I need forged Pistons and Rods for a relatively mild street build?

    ​I already have MSDS headers, Weapon R y-pipe, and true Borla exhaust. Of course I'll replace the alternator while the motor is out. Prob a Clutchnet Stage 1 clutch. I believe it has the stock SVT clutch. Maybe grab a DMD.

    ​Any advice or expertise would be appreciated.

  • #2
    i would recommend checking the lifters. they have a spring inside a think. and some of them "squish" when you squeeze them with your fingers. i had 2 sets replaced all the loose ones and ive never had an idle valve tick after that.

    i would recommend a port and polish. i max port and polished my heads and gained 22 tq and 17 hp. but i also upgraded to st220 manifolds at the same time.

    and honestly i wouldnt recommend replacing the bearings. my 70k factory rod bearing had such minimal wear. i replaced them with clevite and spun a rod within like 10k.

    thats kind of all the insight i can give you. i dont know how much money you want to spend or what your intentions are. its different for every situtation
    1999 Mercury Cougar Full 3.0L MTX


    • #3
      .... if you can find one;

      a lightened flywheel makes the rev's much more snappy.

      I put one on when I bought the DMD.... worked well.... took a couple of days to stop stalling the car at the lights ......G.
      ST24. LPG, 2001 ST200 motor, 65mm P&P'd TB, 80mm MAF, headers, lowered, sway bars and strut braces, 300/278mm brakes, 3.51 FD 3.0L tranny, Torsen, Fidanza.... Vortech nearly completed.

      WANTED; Custom gauge guru for ST200 overlay job... pm me..


      • #4
        Yeah I’m kind of in the same situation right now. I have a 3l from my old contour that is in working condition and want to put on my SVT but idk if I should rebuild the whole thing (new bearings, rings, timing chain?) etc. or just put new gaskets in and call it good. Anyone else have any opinions about this? I won’t be tracking it but I do plan on “spirited” driving and maybe the getting into autocross. Don’t mean to highjack the thread, but I think we both have the same questions.