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Which carbide burr for porting the head??

Lokey CSVT

New CEG'er
Joined
Jun 26, 2009
Messages
20
Location
Denver,CO
Ok I've got the 3L ready and plates on the way. My next question is what kind of carbide bit/burr is working the best for grinding the 3L heads? I've heard that I need to make sure the burr's are aluminum. Is this correct? Or am I fine with any kind of burr? I'm thinking I'll probably need 2 different shaped burr's to get the job done. Thanks for the help
 
Ok I've got the 3L ready and plates on the way. My next question is what kind of carbide bit/burr is working the best for grinding the 3L heads? I've heard that I need to make sure the burr's are aluminum. Is this correct? Or am I fine with any kind of burr? I'm thinking I'll probably need 2 different shaped burr's to get the job done. Thanks for the help
 
Always helpful to have more than one shape there but they are expensive. You can use the burr for any material you want but fine tooth ones will clog easier on aluminum than bigger tooth will. No matter as you cannot cut with out a can of WD40 and a squirt every 30 seconds or so anyway. The fluid keeps the tip running clean. Big tooth eats bigger amounts of material and you rough in with that. Use smaller for finer work once you get most of the big material moved. Easy to make mistake that can't really be fixed with bigger tooth tips.

You mean of course the burrs are FOR aluminum, not made of aluminum......................I never cared and used 'steel' ones on aluminum all day long. No real difference other than shape and tooth configuration/pattern.
 
Always helpful to have more than one shape there but they are expensive. You can use the burr for any material you want but fine tooth ones will clog easier on aluminum than bigger tooth will. No matter as you cannot cut with out a can of WD40 and a squirt every 30 seconds or so anyway. The fluid keeps the tip running clean. Big tooth eats bigger amounts of material and you rough in with that. Use smaller for finer work once you get most of the big material moved. Easy to make mistake that can't really be fixed with bigger tooth tips.

You mean of course the burrs are FOR aluminum, not made of aluminum......................I never cared and used 'steel' ones on aluminum all day long. No real difference other than shape and tooth configuration/pattern.

What I use are different grades of abrasives to do the tasks, and different shape and sizes of bits that make the job easier to accomplish. I don't use WD40, but a liquid based lubricant/cooler that is used with the CNC mill that is filtered and recyclable.

Those bits are not exactly cheap though.
 
Blu-Fuz has done a bunch, and he had a write up on his experiences somewhere on CEG. Hopefully he chimes in.
 
you cannot cut with out a can of WD40 and a squirt every 30 seconds or so anyway. The fluid keeps the tip running clean.

You mean of course the burrs are FOR aluminum, not made of aluminum..........

Thats good to know about the lube. I'll use wd40 as I don't think I have access to cnc lube/coolant ;).

And Yes I did mean for cutting aluminum

Thanks
 
What I use are different grades of abrasives to do the tasks, and different shape and sizes of bits that make the job easier to accomplish. I don't use WD40, but a liquid based lubricant/cooler that is used with the CNC mill that is filtered and recyclable.

Those bits are not exactly cheap though.

I'm thinking I'll go with 2 maybe 3 of them. sparkyabrasives.com/carbide-burrs sorry link button didnt work
 
I'm thinking I'll go with 2 maybe 3 of them. sparkyabrasives.com/carbide-burrs sorry link button didnt work

Maybe 4 or 5 separate ones could be better. Depends on what you are cutting. When I made the heads for my truck, I used maybe 10 bits for fine tuning the cut. Keep in mind though, this is way beyond the scope the OP is considering.
 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#carbide-burs/=up36ox

My favorite are radius end tree burrs, ti nitrite coated. The bigger diameter of the burr helps it not clog up on aluminum. I don't like the ones that are the same size as the shank as they spin way too fast because of the small od, I like big OD burrs for taking off material and shaping and smaller od for fine tuning, peronsally. .
 
Know I'm chiming in late, but I had my old burr break in the middle of my porting and I needed one fast, and I found this company called Ruch Carbide burrs, it was about 40 miles from me, but I called them up and they cut me a burr that same day. I got a tree shaped on with a radial tip and when I said it was for aluminum they gave it a special "aluma cut" so it wouldn't clog up. They even have the option for extended shanks. I wasn't ordering a lot, I just neede one burr, but they had it done in four hours, and I made the drive to philly. I think they only charged me like ~$30 for it but it was the best burr I have ever had and am still using it to date. The extended shank allowed me to keep the tool away from the heads as to avoid nicking and marring them. The burr only clogged once due to my own carelessness, and the tree shape enabled me to smooth the the cuts and grinds I made into the original port quite smoothly. IIRC they even made me special ordered one with a titanium coating... If I ever have to go thru a company again, they get my vote hands down. Great company great service great tools. They even have a replacement plan. Sorry this sounds like a personal "plug" for them, but it isn't, I was just extremely impressed!
 
You should always use a bit made for cutting non-ferrous metals when using it on aluminum. They are designed differently and shouldn't ever clog if you keep them oiled. Google non-ferrous carbide burrs and you'll find tons of options. The two posts above with links are not the correct bits. Those will work but not as well as the correct bits.
 
The link I included breaks down from shape, then you select the tooth style....... I do agree though, but I do all my touch up with double cut tree burrs.

Select a burr, then you see "flutes".

MCC PN: 4295A33
 
Thanks guys. After doing a little more research I ended up ordering a set of 3 burrs made for non-ferrous metals.
 
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