Attn Ceg Atx Gods!

[XKontour98]

Went to install my Poly Roll Resistor (front) and discovered that the mount has seperated from the transmission leaving a gapping hole!

Below are some pics. I am freaking out! Can someone figure out what i need to do. I have no idea how long this has been this way and is it safe to drive? Am I going to need a new trans or a housing? I really don't need this right now! I think it's the torque converter that is being exposed, but I am by no means a transmission person so hopefully those of you that are will be able to help!

Here is the carnage:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v671/xkontour/PICT1050.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v671/xkontour/PICT1052.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v671/xkontour/PICT1059.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v671/xkontour/PICT1058.jpg

BTW: it's a 98 duratec atx with 114K

[Pole120]

Looks like a Torque convertor and flywheel to me.

The part of the trans assembly that's broken is refered to as the "bell housing". The guts of the trans are behind a seal located within that part of the assembly. I would assume that just the bellhousing can be replaced.

[XKontour98]

I am assuming the worst,will I have to remove the trans to replace the housing?

[billygee]

Yep, I had the exact same thing happen to my '95 2.5L Mystique. Was caused by the 1-2 bang shift and a worn RR insert. The bangs got so bad it ripped that part right off the bellhousing.

You may not need to remove the tranny as you can weld that piece back on after removing the radiator and fans etc., to make some room to work in. Normally aluminum welding on cast aluminum will not be very strong, but there's a company that makes special aluminum welding rods that have been getting rave reviews on the durability and ease of aluminum welding by anyone. It's called the HTS-2000 and can be found here:

http://aluminumrepair.com/index.asp

You can watch a video where it is used to weld cast aluminum. Note the rods are not cheap, but still WAY cheaper than replacing your tranny.

Soon as you finish welding it back on though, get those inserts replaced ASAP and change the TSS to stop the bang shifting that destroys the inserts.

[XKontour98]

I'm not familiar with the 1-2 banging? Up until the last 20K or so the drivetrain has had little movement when shifting. It was pointed out to me when my car was on the Dyno at SZ 2005.

The car has never shifted particularily hard and I definitely have not abused it. Maintance has been kept upto date religously.

I am definitely shocked at what I found!

[Pre98]

Holy Hole, Batman! :shocked: Sorry to see, Doug! Rebuild :cool:

[XKontour98]

Can anyone tell me if this is still safe to be driving? I can't imagine this is very safe for the tranny, but for the time being I need it to get me to work.....

[Tony2005]

Can anyone tell me if this is still safe to be driving? I can't imagine this is very safe for the tranny, but for the time being I need it to get me to work.....

Probably need soft acceleration and definitely slow deceleration. And yes, it can't be good for the tranny.

Edit. So, have you decided to weld or put a new housing? If you are not planning to do anything for a few days, you should, at a minimum, remove the broken piece from the front mounting bracket and then JB Weld the broken part on the housing so that nothing falls in the tranny while you are driving.

[fastcougar]

Definitely replace the full bell housing ... I have seen jus this part of the case on eBay in the past a few times. Problem with welding that would worry me is the precise alignment of the two trans halfs can be pulled ascue from the welding process and will lead to more problems down the line. In the meantime, poly fill the rear with 94A and take it easy. The solid rear will help the chassis absorb the vibes vs. the mount alone ... only problem then is NVH goes up, but you have bigger problems!

[fastcougar]

Why you should change it vs. welding:

This picture (from my rebuild) shows what else the case half has attached to it ... it's a little more than just a "bell housing".

http://www.fastcougar.com/cd4e_rebuild/images/IMG_2957.jpg

Now, what's behind it ...

http://www.fastcougar.com/cd4e_rebuild/images/IMG_2958.jpg

Welding might work, but if done imporperly, could cause the case to slightly warp, causing problems with the front main seal on the trans leaking ... not good and at that point, not fixable as you have ruined the case half.

[fastcougar]

This is probably your best bet ... since it ships seperated, you can pull your trans, remove the case half that is broken and then fit this case half and be done with it, OR you can scrap your trans and rebuild this one while you are at it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-CD4E-TRANSMISSION-CLEAN_W0QQitemZ8025290794QQihZ019QQcategoryZ33727Q QrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

Not sure about that batch of 200 you posted to in the other thread ... I would be weary based on the item description, but for $200, worth a consideration.

[XKontour98]

Both the transmissions are from the same seller......