Ray
10-05-2006, 01:06 AM
Author: Don Craig
Applicable to: All vehicles with V6
Tools:
1/4" drive metric set with 7, 8, & 10mm sockets.
10mm must be deepwell to get to the nuts on the battery clamp.
Some extensions and a driver handle are a nice plus.
Waterpump belt part # is F5RZ-8620-A, aka JK3-274
Remove the engine/pump belt plastic cover and battery.
Push the belt tensioner in till it hits the cam pulley and remove the drive belt. The tensioner will move inward by hand, I was surprised how easy it
moved. Unclip the plastic clamp around the water hoses. Unclamp
the hose attached to the steel tube that runs along the front of the
engine, have a pan under the car ready to catch the coolant that will
spill out when you pull the hose off. Leave the cap on the expansion
tank, this will slow the loss of coolant.
If you have an ATX, remove the plug and cable from the top of the
tranny and set it out of the way to keep it dry. This will also keep it
safe from ratchet blows and give you more room. MTX owners have
plenty of room. Minor differences from year to year are the
placement of the PCV hoses, which may be in the way.
Unbolt the thermostat housing (2 bolts) and remove the housing and
short section of hose that goes with it. You can study the thermostat
if you desire. Make sure you put the O-ring back when you
reassemble it. Fun part.
You need to hold the big radiator and heater hose away and maneuver the 8mm socket on to the pump bolts. No need to unclamp them if you are handy. Note the position of the 3 long bolts that go through the pump front and into the engine block when removing the bolts. After all the bolts are removed the pump usually sets there because the gasket is still holding it. Take a punch (or screwdriver for us poor folks) and tap the front section a little to remove its grip. It will fly off, coolant and pieces of the impeller will
go with it. I hunted down the pieces to make sure I had it all, some
sections got stuck in the rear housing. If you can't find all of them,
best you back flush the engine now.
All you need is the front section of the pump with the impeller and
gasket. If you got the new pump that comes with the rear housing
and hoses and want to replace all of it, this is the time for it. Some
of the hoses are buried under the intake. Don't need replacing unless
they are old and worn out.
Clean up the area and install the new front impeller section and new
gasket.
If you have an ATX, clean and blow out the socket on the tranny,
lube the gasket in the plug with silicone grease and install. Reverse
the order and refill what you lost in the tank. It will take a couple of
heat ups and cool downs to get all the coolant back in. Take a bottle
of Dexcool with you, or drive around, let it cool, refill.
Applicable to: All vehicles with V6
Tools:
1/4" drive metric set with 7, 8, & 10mm sockets.
10mm must be deepwell to get to the nuts on the battery clamp.
Some extensions and a driver handle are a nice plus.
Waterpump belt part # is F5RZ-8620-A, aka JK3-274
Remove the engine/pump belt plastic cover and battery.
Push the belt tensioner in till it hits the cam pulley and remove the drive belt. The tensioner will move inward by hand, I was surprised how easy it
moved. Unclip the plastic clamp around the water hoses. Unclamp
the hose attached to the steel tube that runs along the front of the
engine, have a pan under the car ready to catch the coolant that will
spill out when you pull the hose off. Leave the cap on the expansion
tank, this will slow the loss of coolant.
If you have an ATX, remove the plug and cable from the top of the
tranny and set it out of the way to keep it dry. This will also keep it
safe from ratchet blows and give you more room. MTX owners have
plenty of room. Minor differences from year to year are the
placement of the PCV hoses, which may be in the way.
Unbolt the thermostat housing (2 bolts) and remove the housing and
short section of hose that goes with it. You can study the thermostat
if you desire. Make sure you put the O-ring back when you
reassemble it. Fun part.
You need to hold the big radiator and heater hose away and maneuver the 8mm socket on to the pump bolts. No need to unclamp them if you are handy. Note the position of the 3 long bolts that go through the pump front and into the engine block when removing the bolts. After all the bolts are removed the pump usually sets there because the gasket is still holding it. Take a punch (or screwdriver for us poor folks) and tap the front section a little to remove its grip. It will fly off, coolant and pieces of the impeller will
go with it. I hunted down the pieces to make sure I had it all, some
sections got stuck in the rear housing. If you can't find all of them,
best you back flush the engine now.
All you need is the front section of the pump with the impeller and
gasket. If you got the new pump that comes with the rear housing
and hoses and want to replace all of it, this is the time for it. Some
of the hoses are buried under the intake. Don't need replacing unless
they are old and worn out.
Clean up the area and install the new front impeller section and new
gasket.
If you have an ATX, clean and blow out the socket on the tranny,
lube the gasket in the plug with silicone grease and install. Reverse
the order and refill what you lost in the tank. It will take a couple of
heat ups and cool downs to get all the coolant back in. Take a bottle
of Dexcool with you, or drive around, let it cool, refill.