turbo help

[myconsvt]

i was wondering if anyone had any diagrams of the pipeing for a custom turbo kit, mainly i need a picture/ help with the y-pipe and how i set it up for the turbo.

[Keyser]

I think the word 'custom' is the key in your post. Not all Y pipes are the same. You have to make it work.

[fastcougar]

i was wondering if anyone had any diagrams of the pipeing for a custom turbo kit, mainly i need a picture/ help with the y-pipe and how i set it up for the turbo.A drawing will not help you ... you need to either work off an engine on an engine stand KNOWING full well where you have room or not AND/OR work on it with the engine in the car. From there, you simply start measuring length and angles and then start to jot down notes. Someone else's notes are going to be highly gaurded as they took the time to make it work ... the least you could do is the same. That being said, Warmonger has posts all over the old boards/high website with pictures of his designs. Pictures will not tell you what angle to align pipes at or what lengths to cut them at ... that has to come from you working on the system as described above.

[warmonger]

i was wondering if anyone had any diagrams of the pipeing for a custom turbo kit, mainly i need a picture/ help with the y-pipe and how i set it up for the turbo.

I have a sketch that I did as a concept for my last piping set I made. I think its pretty clear as to the conceptual layout, but it may/may not be to you guys.

http://www.rumodded.com/warmonger/misc photos/turbo concept.jpg

Just remember who's design sketches these are! lol
You guys would really be suprised to see some of the crap I've sketched out in my "Contour Modifications" notebook.

[Ray]

That sketch looks so much better in person. I like holding it and imagining!

[TRicker]

it makes it look so much easier than it is. it's tempting but its looking very promising that i'll have a blower on this fall.

[Pope]

it makes it look so much easier than it is. it's tempting but its looking very promising that i'll have a blower on this fall.

if you have access to, and are any good at welding, blowers are not worth it compared to turbos, the torque curves alone are worth the headaches of designing and building the pipe work.

at least in my opinion.

[TRicker]

yep i agree. i would really like to try and get a front mount intercooler though. water/air makes for too much stuff to put in my trunk, if it would have a tank. i'll already have 2 nitrous bottles and a battery back there :)

[Ray]

My water/air IC doesn't seem to take up too much room in my trunk.

Oh, yeah.. none of it is in the trunk, that's why.


There's ways around everything! don't give up!

[TRicker]

can you put up some pics of your setup?????? plzzzzzz?

[Pope]

yep i agree. i would really like to try and get a front mount intercooler though. water/air makes for too much stuff to put in my trunk, if it would have a tank. i'll already have 2 nitrous bottles and a battery back there :)

are you planning on running an intercooler with the blower? if not, then simply run a turbo without an intercooler, temp of the air charge will not be much different between a turbo or centrifical supercharger, when sized properly.

of-course if you go forced induction, you can always ditch the nitrous bottles, or at least one to free up space.

[warmonger]

This is BAD news on a stock compression duratec. Very bad.

[Rara]

btw, war, I hope you don't have a patent or something on that exhaust plumbing ;) I have been planning something similar for awhile :D

[Ray]

If he doesn't, he should! Work of art, man.


BE-YUUU-TI-FULL!!

[KingpinSVT]

btw, war, I hope you don't have a patent or something on that exhaust plumbing ;) I have been planning something similar for awhile :D

I have too (in my head). Once ADC mentioned that they were stopping the production of their kits, I started thinking about making one. And War mentioned long ago about chopping the front header, it became obvious how to accomplish it. The layout isnt that difficult, but its all in the execution.

Im hoping I can at least do the design and fabbing myself, and let someone else do the finish welds. I would just tack everything together and then take it in for some purdy welds. Bring the rear header around to the front, weld on a ball socket to the front header, make a nice 2-->1 up pipe, then carry the downpipe under the trans to the stock exhaust location. A flex pipe or two and maybe an extra flange on the dp to ease removal if necessary. Get an IC, route the intake pipes. Buy the bends, band saw, and welder. Its easy in theory at least, right :rolleyes:

[TRicker]

stock compression with 10psi and a 50 shot should last just long enough to get the 2.5 built with the forged 8.5:1 compression pistons..... hopefully.

[rac74]

Warmonger: Whats the idea of having the downpipe split into two supposed to be for? You have a PM as well.

[DemonSVT]

Warmonger: Whats the idea of having the downpipe split into two supposed to be for? You have a PM as well.
Two simple words: Flow Area.

You can't fit any pipe larger the 2.5" (top to bottom) in that area. So that leaves two options. 3" oval piping (very expensive and a lot more fabrication time) or two pipes. My thinking is that twin 2" pipes (~30% more flow area then single 2.5") are more then sufficient but twin 2.25" will support even huge HP mongers. (500+)

[warmonger]

btw, war, I hope you don't have a patent or something on that exhaust plumbing ;) I have been planning something similar for awhile :D

As long as you tell me my sketch's are good...then I'll be so overcome with flattery I wouldn't care even if it was. heheh

[warmonger]

Warmonger: Whats the idea of having the downpipe split into two supposed to be for? You have a PM as well.

What Demon said.

We don't like scraping pipes.
With the addition of having the wastegate plumbed INTO the system if you want it quiet, then you will have to have more flow area than the 2.5" downpipe shows. See the reason a car can still support that power with a 2.5" downpipe and catback system is the atmospheric vented wastegate (which in the location shown on our cars is NOT too loud :D )
However, stuff that exhaust that would be flowing through the wastegate at WOT back into the exhaust, and you want a lot of flow area to keep restriction down.

[KingpinSVT]

So the idea is to flow a 3" pipe leaving the turbo into 2 2" or 2.25" pipes under the trans to the cat back location, and then into a 3" exhaust? I was curious as to where that second pipe came from as well, glad someone asked.

[Rara]

war,

i was mostly being sarcastic, lol, the only difference with what i was thinking was using oval tubing, probably 2" tube w/ a 2" wide added center. That and I was planning to use an integrated wastegate to keep costs down.

Also, I'm pretty convinced that using an exhaust larger than the downpipe is unecessary. I am of the opinon that a large downpipe immediately after the turbo is good to slow the turbulent and rotating air coming out of the back of the turbine. This will slow the flow, and smooth it out. Then smoothly transition it to a smaller pipe to accelerate the flow to a higher velocity to get it out of the way. For a turbo contour (3L) I'm thinking along the lines of a 3" downpipe transitioning to a 2.5" pipe further down, and I'd venture an educated guess that the transition should start somewhere around 22-24" after the turbine exit. I just wish I had the resources to prove my theory; even if it is based on general fluid mechanics principles.

The worst part is, my own turbo setup is constantly on again / off again, so who knows if i'll ever actually get it on the car.

[warmonger]

I know, I 'm was just playing off the joke.

I too thought of an oval shaped pipe but to create was was too much trouble. My best plan on that was two 2.5" pipes cut open lengthwise, then spread apart and tack welded together, finally flattened down a bit with a hammer to the right shape and then seam welded. Or buy something if they have it but I couldn't find anything convenient.

Internal wastegate makes it more difficult. You would need a 3" to make good use of it. You could transition to a 2.5" exit but it would suck for high flow applications I think.
3" downpipe huh? Not a chance that it will fit and still be able to make the turn down, the radius is too big. Unless you get a less than true 3" pipe and contort it to make the turn. With the full size turbo you have the fact that you would want to keep it level for long bearing life, then the intake is a full 3" that must be able to make that turn and hook up, then the up pipe must provide clearance for the transmission oil fill plug to be serviced....can be a pain if you forget that one! :idea:
Then the AC accumulator must be at least a 1/4" away and room for heatwrapping on the pipe so you don't rub through it or conduct heat right into it....so I just can't see it working without removing something from the car itself like the upper radiator support member and the AC accumulator.
Besides, the normal discharge diameter of the T3 flange is 2.5" + whatever size the wastegate is. I've seen people use the 5 bolt flange adapter assembly and plumb a 2.5" pipe along with a small 1.5" pipe or similar size for the outlet of the wastegate. Not worth the trouble really.
An external wastegate allows the port to be ducted as in the sketch, and then combined at any convenient point later, or atmosphere. Way more flexible for just a couple hundred more dollars.
Now if you actually had ROOM there it would be a different story and I'd use an internal gate.

As far as combining back into a 2.5" two feet from the turbine, I'm not sure how benefiical that would be.
Sure the fluid speed will change with the differen't sections, slowing down then speeding up. But I tend to think of it in terms of fully developed flow with regard to the throughput of the system as a whole is most important.

Maybe you've got a point but I know this much for certain, there is enough exhaust pressure build up on the pressure side of the turbine to push open the 4lb wastegate springs on their own without help from the boost line, at just 10-12psi pressure on the intake side. This tells me that with over 4psi exhaust pressure you need to have a bigger setup on the outlet of the turbo to really flow well. And we know that it is the pressure differential that spins the turbine anyway.