Need help with an Alpine stereo

[Aussie Ford]

Howdy,
I bought my 95 Tour with an Alpine CDA7839 in it. I downloaded a manual from the Apline web site, but it did not contain any installation or wiring info. Haven't found anything on the web to help.

I just want to pull it out and hook up my power antenna (I have ready to install) to it, and reinstall it. I have no idea how it is installed (hope to get that from the manual).

This thing has the removable face plate, the manual says it came with a remote and case for the face plate too, but I didn't get them.

The Alpine site doesn't seem user friendly as there is no place I could find to ask a question, or get the info I need.

Any info you can provide about this would be helpful.

Thanks

[tedBalog]

The antenna is just a simple plug in, I thought the power antenna's came on with the car, not the radio. I wouldn't think you'd have to do anything seperate. :shrug:

[Aussie Ford]

Well my friend you are right and wrong. All venicles with a radio have an antenna. These are either fixed or retractable. Some of the old fixed type were embeded in the winshield like on my old 79 GMC 1ton 4x4. I think most Contours came with a fixed antenna on the rear quarter panel. Of the retractable type they are either manual or power operated. When a radio is changed it is a simple unplug and plug in for the standard antenna. In a power antenna the antenna part is the same, but the power raising / lowering aspect is controlled by the radio. In the 95 Contour the wire that controls it is blue w/ red. It goes from the radio to the antenna module, and triggers the antenna going up or down when the radio, or ignition is turned on / off. My car did not have a power antenna so I am adding it (I got this off a Mystique) along with the wiring. The non stock Alpine stereo in my car may have a control wire for a power antenna, but to determin that and hook it up I have to remove the unit, which I have no idea how to do. Like I said their web site and manual were no help. At the same time I hook up the antenna control wire I also plan to fix the issue that power to the radio was connected wrong so that it only comes on in the key on position. It should come on in the accessory and key on positions. This leads me to think that who ever installed it did not know the proper wiring for the Contour. Also if you were to order a vehicle w/o a radio it would come w/o an antenna. Many service vehicles are ordered by companies w/o radios cuz they're cheaper. Since most people order radios we just tend to think of them as part of the car who'd ever get one without it?????

Now if you know anything about the Alpine CDA7839 I'd appreciate your help.

Regards,

[CarpePoon]

Here are the aftermarket standard wiring codes since they were standardized in '99

P o w e r
Memory (+12v Constant) Yellow
Ignition (+12v Switched) Red
Ground (-) Black
Dimmer Pink/White (Alpine only)
Power Antenna Blue
Amplifier Turn-on Blue/White
Phone Mute Light Blue (Sony only)
S p e a k e r s
Right Front (+) Gray
Right Front (-) Gray/Black
Left Front (+) White
Left Front (-) White/Black
Right Rear (+) Violet
Right Rear (-) Violet/Black
Left Rear (+) Green
Left Rear (-) Green/Black

Heres a helpfull link to the contours wire codes.
http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Ford-Wiring.pdf

[FavoriteMystaque]

That Alpine site is a pain, but still beats ordering the manuals from www.pacparts.com, where you can get the remote, or try ebay... The CDA7837 is close (PDF download), CDA7837 wiring (http://www.stylestandard.net/oswego/Rooms/RoomComponents/AssetView/MoreInfo?Document=com.webridge.entity.Entity[OID[E07796852F0FD511B0A700508BB8123D]]&Container=com.webridge.entity.Entity[OID[E81EDA676903D511B0A000508BB8123D]]&Component=com.webridge.entity.Entity[OID[FE401BA09F99EE4EB6E18F0BD3A19D40]]) The power antenna trigger lead is blue. The Blue/Red from your harness connects there. The factory antenna control module (tan box) needs several power sources shown in this diagram:

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c395/FavoriteMystaque/Antenna.gif
Have fun!

[Aussie Ford]

Thanks for the wiring info guys ........ Still looking for how to remove and reinstall this Alpine CDA7839 unit..

[FavoriteMystaque]

Try calling:

Audio Products Technical Support
(Alpine Electronics of America, Inc.)
(800) TECH-101 (1-800-832-4101)

If you pop the faceplate there may be a tiny latch pin, circular with a hole in it, one on each side. Also, sometimes if you remove the trim ring there is a latch pin on the outside. I had a Clarion radio that needed tools to release it, got them on ebay.

[Pale Horse]

Thanks for the wiring info guys ........ Still looking for how to remove and reinstall this Alpine CDA7839 unit..

Did you not get two thin pieces of metal in a wierd shape in the box? Every CD player comes with them if you buy it new. (not sure if you did). If you have them, you can slide them in on the sides of the cd player (remove the faceplate). Some of the Alpine cd players have two detents that are springloaded on the sided of the housing as well. You can lift these small detents and wiggle the cd player out of the aluminum can. It's hard to explain without pictures but picture this.

You have the rectangular shape of the headunit staring at you. on the left and right sides of the rectangle you will find the two slots where you can slide the keys in. (if you have them) Or you will see the two springloaded detents that you can lift up and out of their groove to release the player from the aluminum 'can'.

I feel retarded typing this....I don't feel like I am making any sense.

[Aussie Ford]

I got this already installed with the car so I don't have any metal pieces, or info with it. I have the removable face plate removed and I removed the trim ring.

Looking I think I see the two springloaded detents that you can lift up and out of their downward groove. I did that and there is a corner at the top of their groove where they go into a slot. It looks like that runs toward the back of the unit. I had to help them by the edges of the plastic face, and there are two what look like a spring clips about 3/16 wide one above one below the detent that turns out and makes a tab that rests on the face of the metal box. I put some pressure under these and was able to move it out a little more than the distance of the heads of the detents. Problem is that everything is so tight that I am concerned about someting breaking. Just doesn't seem right to have to use the amount of force I was using and only moved it about 1/8". The little tabs were starting to straighten out and deform so I quit and put it back in place. Still works....

I did call the Alpine tech line this morning and they were to email the installation info but that was several hours ago and nothing yet. The guy I talked to mentioned spring loaded clips on the sides too. He was surprised the info wasn't on the download site.... but like I said nothing yet.

[FavoriteMystaque]

Maybe they will put that information up on the site now. Check if the unit is secured from behind, and maybe you do need special handles..

[Aussie Ford]

Maybe they will put that information up on the site now. Check if the unit is secured from behind, and maybe you do need special handles..

Like Uncle Jack used to say: "I aint holding my hand on my ass waiting for that to happen."

After several hours waiting for an email from Alpine I called them back and this time they said no way could they provide information on how to remove the unit, or about installation. Gave me a bunch of phony excuses from that would make stealing it easier, ya this obsolete 9 year old unit, and if they told me how to hook it up and it blew up or caught fire they'd be liable, bla,bla,bla...... and even if that information is available for other models on their site they couldn't provide it for this one....geeshhhhh, seems like I got the super secret special model. Then he finished up by saying just go by an installer and they could pop it out in about 5 seconds for me. Not quite sure how that all works.... once it’s out wouldn't you suspect that someone could figure how it all works???

Oh ya they would be happy to sell me a new one.....WELL JACKASS IF I CAN'T GET THE OLD ONE OUT WHERE THE HECK AM I GOING TO PUT A NEW ONE... IN THE GLOVE BOX?

You can bet the next time I need a stereo I'll be sure to check Alpine first. I'm so pissed about their attitude I might not even put this one back...

I'm an old guy with tinnitus anyway so a fancy stereo doesn't mean the same to me as it would someone else. Know what I mean....

but thanks I'll check in back.

[FavoriteMystaque]

You got the lawyer approved answer/the information got lost they won't admit it. I found a picture of the latches Alpine 7839 (http://cgi.ebay.com/Used-Alpine-CDA-7839-Player-Without-Faceplate_W0QQitemZ5837770712QQihZ019QQcategoryZ39 755QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) They push up, release one side at a time. Just like my 3DE7886 which I have the manual for! But, there are those side clips which are not on my Alpine..There are some Alpine Keys on ebay Release keys (http://cgi.ebay.com/Alpine-stereo-removal-tool-tools-key-keys-NEW-LOOK-NIP_W0QQitemZ110040259087QQihZ001QQcategoryZ50552Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) Maybe those will solve the problem? No other clues except the back strap might be your problem.

[Aussie Ford]

Thanks for the info, I think I'll study those pics a bit and give it another try before giving in and going to the stereo joint....... I just can't brign myself to the point of giving up.... Ya, know what I mean.....It can't be that tuff to do...

[Aussie Ford]

BTW, how do those release keys work? and those side clpis were what I was trying to discribe above.

[CarpePoon]

I saw this thread was still going on so I thought I would get my camera and go to the garage.. I figured it was time to test my new DDX-8017 anyways

This is so simple you'll kick yourself in the ass for this one. My radio is a CDA-9835 but uses the same locking pin mechanism. You do not need keys for this setup.

Step 1.. remove face plate
step 2.. remove trim ring
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v642/carpepoon/DSC05279.jpg
Step 3.. see the spring loaded pins. (one on each side of the radio) They are in the down position locking the radio into the cage. sorry, dark garage=crappy photos
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v642/carpepoon/DSC05284.jpg
Step 4.. use any flat object to simply move the pin up (im using a butter knife). While doing so pull on the radio and it will come unlocked
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v642/carpepoon/DSC05286.jpg
Here is a helpfull hint, there is a hole underneith the radio. I dont know why its there but sometimes its hard to get a hold of the radio to pull it out. Stick a finger up in the hole and you will feel the bottom of the radio, use your finger to help push the radio out while it is unlocked.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v642/carpepoon/DSC05287.jpg

[FavoriteMystaque]

The keys would fit on either side of the radio, in notches, and they push metal tabs out of the way. Sometimes you have to push them apart to catch. Carpepoon's nice photos may help, yours is very similar. Is your Polara a 2-door?

[CarpePoon]

It works! I know its kinda unrelated but its what I was going to the garage for in the first place. :)
http://img475.imageshack.us/img475/7660/dsc05288fy8.jpg
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/6193/dsc05291qq7.jpg

[FavoriteMystaque]

:cool: Nice DVD HU! It won't fit in your dash..

[CarpePoon]

I know, it's for my new vehicle when I become a troll in a couple weeks.

[CEM Rider]

Try calling:

Audio Products Technical Support
(Alpine Electronics of America, Inc.)
(800) TECH-101 (1-800-832-4101)

If you pop the faceplate there may be a tiny latch pin, circular with a hole in it, one on each side. Also, sometimes if you remove the trim ring there is a latch pin on the outside. I had a Clarion radio that needed tools to release it, got them on ebay.
I gave those guys a call they were usless so I just returned it and got another one

[FavoriteMystaque]

I know, it's for my new vehicle when I become a troll in a couple weeks.

What is it going to be?

[Aussie Ford]

Thank You all for your input, assistance, and conversation. I got it out now so I can get on with adding a few wires to the harness and powering my antenna which hopefully when all done the radio will properly control.

Your a Great bunch of Guys....for sticking with this old carpenter and armature shade tree machanic to the end.

PS: your right I'm kick'n myself, I was sure those pins were to go rearward in those slots......

That's some pretty fancy stuff you got there looks good.

[FavoriteMystaque]

Glad to help!

[Aussie Ford]

OK so you all helped me and here are the results.....
Yesterday I started the installation of the harness I made up from the dash components to the trunk. At first I was optimistic about getting to Connector #246 (an in line behind the dash by the glove box), but after removing the pocket below the radio, the radio, the glove box and the glove box top cover I came to realize there is no way to reach it. this is where the blue/red wire is missing from the connector. Ok new plan..... hook up the other wires while you figure out the new plan....

Removed the panel below the steering column disconnected the battery, then after waiting 10 min or so, removed all the connectors from the fuse box, removed the fuse box, then removed the fuse box bracket. On top of this bracket are several other connectors I needed access to the blue one C-289 mostly as I had to add three pins to each side (M & F) first thing I find is that even though the pins look similar the ones from the 98 and the 95 I have are different so I can't just insert them. New Plan #2 take pins from spare wires I have, splice them on to the wires, and insert them. OK that works.. I have to connect the blue / white wire from that C-246 I can't get to, to C-289 pin #5, which I just inserted. Can't get to the splice which is in a raceway behind the dash so I find the blue wire (C-285 fuse panel) that provides power to it and solder a splice in to it where it is convenient to get to.

Purple / blue pin #4 goes to purple / yellow (C-283 fuse panel) I replace this wire in the connector with a section that had the splice I needed in it and solder splice it into the place where I cut it out.

Pin #6 that darn blue / red from that connector I can't get to,.... insert the pin and I'll get to the other end later.

Connector #298 into fuse panel bottom, find the orange / blue pin #5 and remove it insert new pin with 2 wires in it and solder splice it where I cut it.

Put all that mess back together only the loose end of the blue / red wire to deal with. I route it over to the hole for the radio making sure it isn't getting pinched or in a place it can get cut ahhhh got it. What the heck I crimp it to the wire in the radio harness marked Power Antenna (blue).

Now I hook up the power, connect the radio and check for proper operation before running the wires the rest of the way to the trunk. Turn on the key the antenna goes up and motor keeps running. I turn the key off, antenna goes down. Check power at the connector. power is everywhere it should be when it should be, but at that darn blue / red wire. Check continuity and it is good from the radio plug to the other end the antenna module connector #413. Plug in the radio and nothing coming from it. Put it all back together glad I didn't remove the other antenna yet, go have an adult beverage go to bed..... I'll try the amp power lead maybe this Alpine CDA7838 doesn't control a power antenna. I did find out this is a 1999 model head unit, and if it doesn't have power out at the amp lead I'm getting rid of it......

Such a deal........ what the heck an interesting adventure and preportory for the up coming fog light adventure......

[Pale Horse]

Hey Aussie....Does that antenna make a horrible grinding/clicking noise when it reaches the top of its extention point? If so, you may be the victim of a broken antenna. When these antennas are operating normally, it will reach it's extention maximum and back down an inch or so. You might try letting the antenna go all the way up and sit there for a minute making that irritating noise. Mine does this but after a few seconds it stops and will stay put in it's appropriate position. You will still get hours of satisfying musical dischord. You only have to be able to get past the first few seconds of annoying noise until you can fix the antenna. The masts on our antennas are notorious for breaking. Not sure if this is what you are experiencing, but its worth archiving this into the boards for future searches I figured.

[whip/noises] Back from the dead, thread...back from the dead.[whip/off]

[Aussie Ford]

"you may be the victim of a broken antenna"
You hit the nail on the head there.... I opened it up and sure enough the nylon drive belt for the antenna is broken off about 6" from the end. Anyone know where the best place is to get a new mast?

[Pale Horse]

You can get them off of e-bay for around 15-20 bones. But personally, I would just grab one off a salvage car. Surely they would let you return it if it didn't work out for you. You may even be able to open it up and inspect it before you buy. These would be the cheapest ways to go...

[Aussie Ford]

I have checked about 35 cars in the wrecking yards around here, Portland, Orygun. Most had the fixed type, and of the few that had the power option most were bent, broken, or gone. The car this one came out of looked well maintained before the accident, so I thought “this one is probably a good one”…… That’s what I get for listening to myself 
I had to pay a whopping $3 for it and seems like I got my moneys worth…. The best part is I also got the wiring and connectors along with it. Now that the other stuff is installed, and I know that it works, guess I could look at this as a maintenance item. I saw where auto zone has some for about $20, that’s right around the ebay cost when you include the shipping, so I’ll have to check around and see what I can find locally, and I just may need to take another walk through the yards. One never knows what might have just come in…
Thanks for the suggestion….