Lucas engine oil stabilizer (a must read for Hybrid guys!)

[giddyup306]

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[giddyup306]

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[Pale Horse]

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say this: I bet if you drop the pan and look into the pickup tube you will find some sort of flow decreasing particles. I have seen first hand RTV Black start to clog up an oil pickup tube. This would support the intermittent lack of oil pressure. I have seen many people use different RTV's/gasket makers to seal the front covers and even appllied it to the pan gasket to 'ensure' a proper seal. The problem with this is when the RTV/Gasket maker gets real hot...which it will in those areas...it begins to break away from the mating surface and ending up in the pan and on to the pickup tube. The Lucas Oil is not near as thick as the regular oils that we are used to adding to our motors. I bet this thinner additive is making its way through the pickup tube and on to the vital parts.

In short, drop the pan and inspect.

[giddyup306]

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[DemonSVT]

You do realize that Lucas oil stabilizer foams right? Bob the oil guy (IIRC) has a sickeningly stunning demo with an electric motor (turning gears) foaming the Lucas at a mere 300rpm. Imagine idle, 3000, 6000, 7500... Also anything that's goal is to use mass amounts of Viscosity Index improvers (solid particulates used to "thicken" oil) to mask engine problems is a serious step in the wrong direction. Just another typical POS oil additive.

[giddyup306]

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[warmonger]

Oil is used because it is a liquid and can be pressurized into bearing areas. It's a fluid layer under pressure that keeps the metal bearings apart. fluid is not compressible like solids.
Foaming means that like soap bubbles there is gas trapped in the oil, Air. This IS compressible and means that the layer of fluid can no longer protect the bearings becaus the air in the oil will compress under pressure and then the metal will make contact.

If Demon is right that it foams, I would get rid of it.

Maybe you should just change to a thicker multigrade oil.

My Volvo owners manual is one of the first manuals I've read that actually explains to run thicker weight oils in higher summer temps and thinner weight oils in cooler temps to prolong the life of the engine. It actually states that at the expense of some gas mileage the thicker oil protects better.
<polishes fingernails on shirt> As I've been touting for a while.... lol

I recommend 10w40 for summer or temps. I used 20w50 in Az with 100-115*F temps.

[m4gician]

Love Lucas, makes engine run better. Sure it's American made, but that's why it works on the outside and on the inside just another POS additive :).

p.s. don't flame, im tired right now and im going to bed.

[DemonSVT]

Good thing you politely answered that one Tom. "Who cares if it foams?" :blackeye: Sheesh...

[warmonger]

lol. :D I saw that and I thought I'd point it out before someone else (like you) came back to explain it.

[MapOfTaziFoSho]

Oil is used because it is a liquid and can be pressurized into bearing areas. It's a fluid layer under pressure that keeps the metal bearings apart. fluid is not compressible like solids.
Foaming means that like soap bubbles there is gas trapped in the oil, Air. This IS compressible and means that the layer of fluid can no longer protect the bearings becaus the air in the oil will compress under pressure and then the metal will make contact.

If Demon is right that it foams, I would get rid of it.

Maybe you should just change to a thicker multigrade oil.

My Volvo owners manual is one of the first manuals I've read that actually explains to run thicker weight oils in higher summer temps and thinner weight oils in cooler temps to prolong the life of the engine. It actually states that at the expense of some gas mileage the thicker oil protects better.
<polishes fingernails on shirt> As I've been touting for a while.... lol

I recommend 10w40 for summer or temps. I used 20w50 in Az with 100-115*F temps.

On this same note I was told by a knowledgable gentleman that ford and others spec their new cars with 5w20 simply so they can get that extra 1-2mpg for CAFE regulations. :rolleyes:

If you care about the longevity of your motor, listen to what Tom posted.

I run 10w30 in the summer in MI (it doesn't get too hot here), and 5w30 in the fall/winter. My 2.5L had almost 100k miles on it and died sadly to my mechanical prowess. :blackeye:

[fastcougar]

Actually, it's probably like 0.2 - 0.3 MPG difference ... 1 - 2 MPG is astronomical for a simple lubrication change. However, every tenth of a MPG counts ... according to CAFE regualtions:
If the average fuel economy of a manufacturer's annual car or truck production falls below the defined standard, the manufacturer must pay a penalty, currently $5.50 per 0.1 mpg under the standard, multiplied by the manufacturer's total production for the U.S. domestic market. Do the math for a vehicle like the Ford Explorer (400,000+ per year produced since introduction in 1990). $5.50 x 2 (.2 MPG shy of the average set) x 450,000 = $4,950,000!!!

[warmonger]

Actually, it's probably like 0.2 - 0.3 MPG difference ... 1 - 2 MPG is astronomical for a simple lubrication change. However, every tenth of a MPG counts ... according to CAFE regualtions:
Do the math for a vehicle like the Ford Explorer (400,000+ per year produced since introduction in 1990). $5.50 x 2 (.2 MPG shy of the average set) x 450,000 = $4,950,000!!!

Holy CRAP! :shocked:

That is a lot of cash. I can see why. Well like I said, at least Volvo is straight forward about it. I can even scan the page out of the owners manual and post for the really curious...or maybe someone can find it online.

This is one of the reasons that I really like my volvo. The other reason is the 4yr - 50K mile comprehensive warranty that covers all oil changes while you are at it. :cool: I still change the oil in between the dealer changes but it's nice.
Also, most car companys offer split warranties, where they give a really long powertrain warranty but only a two year comprehensive, and stuff like that.

[Pope]

I run 10w30 in the summer in MI (it doesn't get too hot here), and 5w30 in the fall/winter.

you do realize the only benefit you are getting is thinner oil at start-up right? because at operating temps both those oils have the same viscosity.

the better summer/winter change is 10w40/5w30 respectively (for places like michigan).

[PDXSVT]

What about 0-40? Doesn't mobil 1 make that flavor?

[DemonSVT]

I run 0W40 Mobil 1. Mainly because Mobil 1 5W40 is not available locally.
If you get some "seapage" troubles with it try mixing in 1 quart of Synthetic Max-Life 5W30. I actually recommend adding a quart of Max-Life for anyone that gets the common front cover area seapage. It works quite well. My 2.5L used to have this problem noticeably (oil streaks) with 5W30. The 3L was just starting to show some "wet look" (no visible oil though) when I changed the oil last month. (3 years & 20k+ miles)

[SHOgoFast]

Now Volvo is owned by FMC. Why the difference then in manual recommendations? Just because Volvo is a more prestigious brand name?

[MapOfTaziFoSho]

you do realize the only benefit you are getting is thinner oil at start-up right? because at operating temps both those oils have the same viscosity.

the better summer/winter change is 10w40/5w30 respectively (for places like michigan).


Yeah, I thought that was the reason to do it! :shrug:

In the winter I don't have time to let the car warm up.

[warmonger]

Well you could run a 40wt in summer with the higher operating temps verus a 30wt in winter where on average the actual oil in the sump will be cooler. Thats the main difference.

[Blackcoog]

Holy CRAP! :shocked:

That is a lot of cash. I can see why. Well like I said, at least Volvo is straight forward about it. I can even scan the page out of the owners manual and post for the really curious...or maybe someone can find it online.

This is one of the reasons that I really like my volvo. The other reason is the 4yr - 50K mile comprehensive warranty that covers all oil changes while you are at it. :cool: I still change the oil in between the dealer changes but it's nice.
Also, most car companys offer split warranties, where they give a really long powertrain warranty but only a two year comprehensive, and stuff like that.

That's the same warranty I had on my 02 Jaguar X-type. It's really nice to have.

[Big Daddy Kane]

Now Volvo is owned by FMC. Why the difference then in manual recommendations? Just because Volvo is a more prestigious brand name?

My guess it's the engine...

[giddyup306]

You do realize that Lucas oil stabilizer foams right? Bob the oil guy (IIRC) has a sickeningly stunning demo with an electric motor (turning gears) foaming the Lucas at a mere 300rpm. Imagine idle, 3000, 6000, 7500... Also anything that's goal is to use mass amounts of Viscosity Index improvers (solid particulates used to "thicken" oil) to mask engine problems is a serious step in the wrong direction. Just another typical POS oil additive.

You are 100% correct on the foaming issue. I was a the parts store and saw the Lucas oil setup. I spun the crank as fast as I could. Between the top 2 gears I saw bubbles. And I was probably turning that thing at only 50 rpm or so. Not that I ever douted you....

[giddyup306]

Maybe you should just change to a thicker multigrade oil.



Ford had a TSB saying to run 5W20. So I did. The reason is that it gets 1/2% better fuel economy. So I thought it's the same price.... Now after this incodent I can say that I honsetly don't think that these lighter oils have the lubricity of thicker oils. I did an oil change with 10W30 and my pressures are back to normal. BUT Big Jim was saying something about the pumps causing a wierd wear pattern with thicker oils. That's what I was mainly concerned about.

[giddyup306]

Good thing you politely answered that one Tom. "Who cares if it foams?" :blackeye: Sheesh...


My guess is that there was a piece of **** stuck in the pump. I guess it cleaned it out . $20 for the addative or take the engine out and replace the pump. Tough choice. And you totally took that out of context. Oh yeah and for the record I did to an oil change immediately after the Lucas treatment.

[MapOfTaziFoSho]

OMFG!! I LOVE YOU MAN!

My favs in order:

#1: lubricity
#2: incodent
#3: "Now after this incodent I can say that I honsetly don't think that these lighter oils have the lubricity of thicker oils."

[warmonger]

Ford had a TSB saying to run 5W20. So I did. The reason is that it gets 1/2% better fuel economy. So I thought it's the same price.... Now after this incodent I can say that I honsetly don't think that these lighter oils have the lubricity of thicker oils. I did an oil change with 10W30 and my pressures are back to normal. BUT Big Jim was saying something about the pumps causing a wierd wear pattern with thicker oils. That's what I was mainly concerned about.

You should be fine with a 10w30, honestly that isn't what I'd consider a "thicker" oil. It's probably ideal for most normal temp driving. 5w30 or 5w20 for cool temps and maybe a 10w40 for hot summer temps. That's just me though.....but I can honestly say driving the **** out of all my cars and I NEVER had a bearing issue on three different types of setups.
Of course I've popped a couple of pistons...but who's counting. :p

[MapOfTaziFoSho]

Yah, but those pistons were subjected to "abnormal wear"!

I beat the piss outta my old 2.5L forever. What killed it was not a bearing issue, but my own laziness. :blackeye:

Use good oil!

[Ray]

Yah, but those pistons were subjected to "abnormal wear"!

Damn, if that's all it takes to be in the group, then I've already got one under my belt.

[warmonger]

Yah, but those pistons were subjected to "abnormal wear"!

I beat the piss outta my old 2.5L forever. What killed it was not a bearing issue, but my own laziness. :blackeye:

Use good oil!

lol True, the 2.5L is a good engine if you keep good oil in it.

[XKontour98]

I run 0W40 Mobil 1. Mainly because Mobil 1 5W40 is not available locally.
If you get some "seapage" troubles with it try mixing in 1 quart of Synthetic Max-Life 5W30. I actually recommend adding a quart of Max-Life for anyone that gets the common front cover area seapage. It works quite well. My 2.5L used to have this problem noticeably (oil streaks) with 5W30. The 3L was just starting to show some "wet look" (no visible oil though) when I changed the oil last month. (3 years & 20k+ miles)


Great advice! I am going to give that a shot next oil change. I am getting some front end seepage and I have been using Amsoil 5W30 since 44K and have 114K currently. I first started seeing hte seepage around 90K give or take 10K.

[warmonger]

Heheh, in your case it just may be you need new gaskets considering you're over 100K

[XKontour98]

Heheh, in your case it just may be you need new gaskets considering you're over 100K


Most likely! I'm just in denile!

[giddyup306]

OMFG!! I LOVE YOU MAN!

My favs in order:

#1: lubricity
#2: incodent
#3: "Now after this incodent I can say that I honsetly don't think that these lighter oils have the lubricity of thicker oils."

Let me tell you something Captian Dipsh*t, I have more experence and education than you ever will.

[warmonger]

Heheheh, this is gonna get good....where's the popcorn

http://forums.coloradoracing.net/html/emoticons/popcorn.gif

[fornetti14]

You do realize that Lucas oil stabilizer foams right? Bob the oil guy (IIRC) has a sickeningly stunning demo with an electric motor (turning gears) foaming the Lucas at a mere 300rpm. Imagine idle, 3000, 6000, 7500... Also anything that's goal is to use mass amounts of Viscosity Index improvers (solid particulates used to "thicken" oil) to mask engine problems is a serious step in the wrong direction. Just another typical POS oil additive.

I had first hand experience with this in an old Subaru. Trans. fluid foamed so bad it started slipping.

[giddyup306]

Heheheh, this is gonna get good....where's the popcorn

http://forums.coloradoracing.net/html/emoticons/popcorn.gif

That's fine. I have one more post to make tomorrow.

[MapOfTaziFoSho]

Let me tell you something Captian Dipsh*t, I have more experence and education than you ever will.


I'll give you lubricity, but just how much grad school have you done?! Furthermore please manage to get through a simple sentence without spelling errors with simple words like experience.

Finally, considering the completely ****ed up Tb shaft I got from you I really don't expect much from you in terms of common sense. :rolleyes:

[Ray]

Fruthermore please manage to get through a simple sentence without spelling errors with simple words like experience.

Welcome to Ironyville.
Population: MapofTaziFoSho.. and TexasRealtor
This IS gonna get good

[giddyup306]

I'll give you lubricity, but just how much grad school have you done?! Furthermore please manage to get through a simple sentence without spelling errors with simple words like experience.

Finally, considering the completely ****ed up Tb shaft I got from you I really don't expect much from you in terms of common sense. :rolleyes:

4 years. You?

Remind me again if I did not offer you a complete refund.

Sorry, I didn't realize this was a formal forum. I will try to make grammer a priority.

Oh, and next time, you might want to put commas where they need to be. Being that this is a formal forum and all.

[MapOfTaziFoSho]

You sure as **** didn't offer me a full refund! You said we could work something out with some money back, but never a full refund. I just let it go...

[Ray]

I will try to make grammer a priority.

Man.. I could do this ALL DAY!

Ironyville
Population: TexasRealtor, MapofTaziFoSho and giddyup306

[giddyup306]

You sure as **** didn't offer me a full refund! You said we could work something out with some money back, but never a full refund. I just let it go...


Yes, I sure as **** did. I told you "undo whatever you did and send it back". If I was truely THAT dissapointed in a product, I woul not try and fix it myself and talk to the seller. Rather than DEMANDING $20 back. Recall any thoughts?

Oh yeah and FWIW I took time off work to send it to you because you needed it ASAP. And at least you sent payment immediately. Wait...

But yeah thanks for bringing this up on a public forum.

[giddyup306]

Man.. I could do this ALL DAY!

Ironyville
Population: TexasRealtor, MapofTaziFoSho and giddyup306

Good for you. I have better things to do in life.

[MapOfTaziFoSho]

Yes, I sure as **** did. I told you "undo whatever you did and send it back". If I was truely THAT dissapointed in a product, I woul not try and fix it myself and talk to the seller. Rather than DEMANDING $20 back. Recall any thoughts?

Oh yeah and FWIW I took time off work to send it to you because you needed it ASAP. And at least you sent payment immediately. Wait...

But yeah thanks for bringing this up on a public forum.



My check was sent back because the address was wrong IIRC.

[giddyup306]

My check was sent back because the address was wrong IIRC.


No. You had sent me a PM saying that you had not shipped it out on the day you had said.

[Ray]

Good for you. I have better things to do in life.

Last I checked, you were wasting your time on an online forum *****ing about what happened in the past.
Shouldn't you be doing something a little more... rewarding, I guess?

Take a joke.. everyone else seems to be able to do that... and let things go. that too

[giddyup306]

Last I checked, you were wasting your time on an online forum

Yeah I guess I have 7K posts on this forum.


Oh and I did not bring up anything. Maybe you need to re-read this thread. Peter brought it up.

[Ray]

You are right... I never said you "brought it up". I said you were *****ing. as was he. your point?


Oh.. and I have 7000+ posts... You said it yourself, you have more important things to do.. I, obviously, don't then.

Again.... Your point?

[giddyup306]

You are right... as was he.

Grammar error. Does that make you feel better?

[Tony2005]

.... You said it yourself, you have more important things to do.. I, obviously, don't then.

...

And I have 5000 posts in one year. :p

Giddyup306, lighten up. This is the internet and everybody was joking. ;)

[warmonger]

Guys, I'm sorry I instigated this. :( I had no idea there was some private business dealings when I thought you two were teasing each other about bad grammar.

So since there is, please accept my appology and take it back into the closet. (or PMs if you prefer) and if there is anything left of this thread we can get it back on topic.